Prepping to Climb Abroad

As we blaze -- or maybe lollygag for all I know of tracking one's speed through water -- across the wide-open sea, I realize it's just two days until climbing in Puerto Rico will commence. This cruise ship wedding reception thing has been a fun enough (albeit strange) way to pass 60 hours or so, but it's got me itching to get my feet back on land and my fingers on some stone. So, as a means of whiling the time, I'm pondering the importance of preparation for international climbing trips. Here are a few tips we've learned along the way, as well as considerations that have come into play this time.

The Beta
Before Mike & I even decide whether or not somewhere will make a worthwhile overseas crag for us, we browse the beta, much as we would for a new-to-us area state-side. This means combing Mountain Project, investing in guidebooks and scouting for climbing or other outdoor shops in the vicinity. I've also posted in online forums to double check safety and get the latest info.

Together, all this research should at least let you know about the ascents -- are they your style, is there enough climbing at your grade? -- the approaches and the extent to which the sport is accepted and supported locally. It'll also warn you of any particular dangers that may be deal-breakers. I.e., questionable bolts just aren't an option in our book, so we decided against climbing in the Dominican Republic for now (the conditions create similar conditions to those found in Thailand's southern climbing areas, but the much smaller local climbing community means retrofitting hasn't been prioritized as it has in SE Asia's climbing mecca) yet. Weak, unpredictable bolts present too high a risk for us so we simply won't climb where we can't count on our protection. That said, nosey monkeys or the occasional bee swarm are manageable, though they can certainly be unpleasant. So, as you plan, think long and hard about which risks you find acceptable (and how big they are) to take when you're a long way from home.

The Planning
Once we've decided where it's appealing to hit the crags, I start looking into feasibility. How long will it take us to get there? What type of transport will we need? What will accommodations be like? Are there good rest-day options? This work is more like typical travel-planning so grab your preferred guidebook and get to work. Sometimes, climbing guides will have enough detail that if this is your sole reason for a visit you don't need another book, but I like the travel as much as the crags, so I always check out what else there is to do in an area. If you're going for a whirlwind visit or heading out during peak seasons, you'll probably want to reserve accommodations ahead of time (at least your first night or two) but sometimes the budget spots are walk-in only so you'll just have to wait if that's your preference. If you're booking early, I find sites like Tripadvisor and Agoda to be just as handy as Lonely Planet for actually selecting a spot to sleep.

Your Gear
We decided that we'll always bring our own gear when climbing overseas. First, we know its history and can thus vouch for its safety. Not so with outfitter-owned gear. Though in some cases I'd absolutely trust it, that'd require additional research that is tough to do from afar. Still, if you're packing, there are a few things to keep in mind. First, we have to consider weight limits -- typically, they range from 44 to 50 pounds for checked bags. When we went to Thailand, we put all the equipment -- from rope to shoes -- in Mike's backpack and tried to guestimate weights. Turns out we showed up at the airport with my 15-pound bag while Mike's weighed 60. To avoid airport hassle and luggage re-arranging, we now weigh the bags at home. It's worth it! Second, make sure you pack weight-bearing metals on the inside so they're well-padded. This means carabiners, belay devices, etc. To keep things simple when we get to our destination and for any additional traveling we do, Mike packs his climbing bag and puts it inside his gigantic travel pack. This does double duty of protecting important gear and keeping everything separate for when we hit the crags. I usually take on the stuff that put us over weight -- shoes, sunscreen, bug spray, etc.

If you decide you'd rather not lug around all this extra mass, there are certainly reputable services out there and many rent gear. Just do all the legwork you can ahead of time. Find out what their policies are on retiring gear -- how many years for each piece, what about if it hits hard ground, how do they decide when something is worn, things like that. It's also worthwhile to make sure they carry harnesses and shoes in your needed sizes as it may be worth bringing this stuff of your own and using the shop's rope and quickdraws.

Go Guide? Or Go Solo?
This is another personal decision. Usually, we grab a guidebook and hit the crags on our own, just like we would in the US. In fact, I've only gone on a guided "climbing" trip once anywhere and it was a joke. That said, it was in northern India as a day excursion from my ashram-base for yoga teacher training. This was not climbing. Yes, we were belayed and yes, there was a rope, but the 20-foot roadside rock was not a crag. But places like Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures or Basecamp Tonsai will get you out safely and save you the time of navigating new areas. Which may be an ideal strategy if you've got limited time or really want to climb as hard and much as you can. Or, of course, if you're not that familiar with climbing outside and want a more experienced hand present. But again, dig around to make sure your chosen escort is of suitable quality. Read reviews, ask in online forums, give them a call before you get to town or drop in when you do. Make sure they'll be able to provide the service you're looking for.

Rock Climbing: Out of the Gym and Into the Wild

*This piece originally appeared at Misadventures Magazine. While it targets women, there's plenty of  useful info for all!*

I checked my knot—through two, two in, two out, a clean and sturdy figure-8—and sank into the heady reality of my present. Bamboo stalks clacked with the breeze and dried leaves clattered noisily to the forest floor. The swirling limestone cliffs towered above me, as much home to wax bees and honeycombs as tufas and overhangs. An anthropologist and lifelong wanderer, I always figured one day I’d wind up in Thailand. But I’m quite certain I never imagined I’d eat my best meal from a metal to-go bowl, lounging on a hand-built bamboo shelter beneath Crazy Horse Buttress. I never thought I’d establish my own ritual, each summer stemming up a flawless vermillion corner beside a painting of the Virgin of Guadalupe in southern Colorado. And I never pictured myself, suspended from webbing 100 feet in the air, wind gusting and sun blasting as I belayed my partner up the next pitch of soft Vegas sandstone. 

Following on my first multipitch route in Vegas.

Rock climbing devotees glean a slew of concrete benefits and untouchable joys. Since coming to the sport over eight years ago, I’ve gained confidence and resilience, built unexpected physical strength, and reveled in the elegance of movement and the power of moments. It’s a great way to deepen trust and develop new social networks. But those of us who step out of the gym and shimmy up some real rock may reap the finest gifts our vertical playground has to offer: the chance to interact, intimately and adventurously, with some of the world’s most enticing landscapes. 

Leading Crynoid Corner (5.7) at Colorado's Shelf Road.

An estimated seven-million people climb on artificial walls each year, and just over one-third of these take the sport outside. While women may benefit the most from getting out of the gym and into the wild—climbing is increasingly used in empowerment trainings—we remain outnumbered by our male counterparts five-to-one at the crags. But getting outside for the first time can feel intimidating, laden with insurmountable obstacles. Below are some tips, tools and resources to help rookies safely and joyfully take their love of ascent outdoors.

STARTER EQUIPMENT AND GEAR

What you probably already have:  

• Shoes
• Chalk bag
• Belay device
• Harness

Other stuff you (or your partner) should have: 

• Rope (70m is ideal for most single-pitch, and make sure it’s dynamic)
• ATC (if your belay device is something different)
• Rack (14 quick draws should get you up most sport climbs; a trad rack will require a much larger investment in an assortment of nuts, cams and other gear)
• Anchors
• Helmet
• A system for clipping into your anchor when cleaning.

SKILLS

Building the skills you need to climb safely outside can be daunting and overwhelming, but there are plenty of resources out there to ease the process. Former wilderness guide and avid rock climber, Kristin Anderson recommends taking a class through a local gym or climbing guide service. These organizations “usually offer some intro outdoor classes to get you solid with the safety skills you need to start climbing outside (top rope anchors and/or intro to leading). Though they can be expensive,” she explains, “knowing how to do things safely, or at least knowing enough to make sure that your friends are being safe, is worth a lot of $$ and can save lives!”

There are also some great books out there. I like any of Craig Luebben’s work, including Rock Climbing Anchors, Knots for Climbers, and Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills, for a solid intro to all levels of skills.

CLIMBING PARTNERS

A quality climbing partner or group is the ultimate key to a great introduction to the outdoors. If you’ve been climbing in a gym, you may already have a partner whose skills and knowledge you trust. Otherwise, gyms and websites often host “partner search” boards, which can be a great place to start. You may also find a compatible partner if you choose to take the lead or anchor classes mentioned above. And don’t be shy about approaching people. Most climbers love sharing their passion and introducing newbies to the joys of climbing outdoors. Regardless, I prefer to climb with a person inside first, just to make sure I’m comfortable with their skills and that we communicate well. 

FINDING THE RIGHT CLIFFS

Once you’ve got your gear, practiced skills and found a partner you trust, it’s time to get outside. But where? Choosing the best climbing area for your experience level is important. Some places offer routes for all levels, while others appeal to moderate or perhaps advanced climbers. To get started, unless you opted for an outdoor class with a climbing service, ask around at gyms or climbing stores or post a question in an online forum. 

The best way to select climbs within the area and to find them on-the-ground is to fork over the standard $25 fee for a guidebook. Guidebooks are written by people who have spent the time developing and climbing in the area. They provide a history of the area, an overview of the rock, approach information, route descriptions, and quality photos of the cliffs. It’s well worth the investment and supports the authors’ efforts. Websites like Mountain Project provide updates and supplement details.

To avoid getting lost once you find the actual cliff (sometimes too easy to do!), pick a prominent feature in the book—a large shady overhang, boulder at the top, or tree—then find it on the wall and use this to orient yourself. Stay oriented as you comb the base of the cliff! 

ETHICS

Climbing ethics center around protecting gear, environment and experience at the crags. I’ve included some of the key do’s and don’t’s below, but The Access Fund is a great resource for more detailed information.

• Don’t top-rope on fixed gear. Use your own anchor!
• Try to rappel off once you’ve cleaned the anchor.
• Respect the sanctity of the outdoor experience—this typically means no radios, making sure kids or dogs don’t harass other climbers, things like that.
• Leave no trace: Pick up your trash and use designated toilets when they’re around. If they’re not, bring a shovel and dig a hole.

INSPIRATION

Climbing Free, by Lynn Hill

Sender Films’ awesome series of climbing films

The annual Women of Climbing calendar

Daila Ojeda’s blog